Why does a rug change colour?

Have you ever wondered why a rug has various colour changes? 

People often think that it is either a defect or caused by fading (both mistaken) but there is a technical explanation. It is called ‘Abrash’ (other spellings are available) and this is what gives a good handmade rug it’s texture. If you look at a poor quality rug with chemical dyes, it looks ‘flat’ in comparison. In fact, many machine made rugs will try to artificially replicate the Abrash that you get in handmade rugs.

Abrash can take many forms, from the subtle colour changes in this antique Bakhtiar rug

to the more extreme you can see in this antique Caucasian rug

So, how and why does it occur?

Firstly, it is important to understand the basics of how a rug is woven.

Sheep is shorn ➡️  Wool is sorted and washed ➡️  Wool is spun and bundled ➡️ Wool is dyed ➡️ Rug is woven

Dyes

Natural dyes

Humans have been dyeing wool and other fibres for centuries, using natural products including plants, roots, nuts and even bugs! Chemical (or aniline) dyes were discovered in the mid 19th Century and began to be used in rugs from the 1870s, becoming widespread in the 1st quarter of the 20th Century.

Dyeing Process

Wool dyeing in Afghanistan

After the wool is spun and bundled, it is placed in small, wood-fired pots with the dye. The experienced dyer will then ascertain how long to leave the wool to achieve the required colour. This is mostly done using their experience and by sight. The bundles of wool will all absorb the dye slightly differently, according to many different factors - the temperature of the water, how long it has been left in the pot, even down to how tightly bound the bundle is.

Weaving

Rug Weaving in Pakistan

Once the wool is dyed, the weaver will start the rug from the bottom up. As they use up one bundle of wool, they will then start another. Although they may look identical, as we have seen above, each bundle will be slightly different, causing slight changes as they work up the rug (which is why Abrash always occurs horizontally rather than vertically). This continues until the rug is finished.

Antique Rugs

In addition to the natural variations at the point of weaving, dyes can change over time. If the weaver uses two batches of wool with different dye ingredients that look similar, they can fade at different rates over time, accentuating the difference in the colour.

Antique Malayer Rug

In this example of an antique Malayer rug, the rug would have been a uniform colour when woven, but one half has faded faster than the other.

Conclusion

Whilst brash can take many forms, it invariably adds character and depth to any rug, both new and antique. It can also be an indication of good quality dyes (whether they are natural or aniline) and artisan production.

Isfahan, the History Behind the Rugs

One of the highlights of my first trip to Iran in 1994 was a visit to Isfahan. I was blown away by the architecture and culture of the city and soon fell under the spell of it’s magical rugs!

Isfahan, located in central Iran, is one of the oldest and most significant cities in the country.

It’s history stretches back over 2,500 years, and the city has played a crucial role in shaping the cultural, political, and economic landscape of Iran. Here's a brief summary of the important historical periods of Isfahan:

Ancient Times: The area around Isfahan has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with archaeological evidence suggesting settlements dating back to the Palaeolithic era. The city's early history is intertwined with the ancient Elamite civilization and later the Achaemenid Empire, established by Cyrus the Great in the 6th century BCE.

Parthian and Sassanid Era: Isfahan gained prominence during the Parthian period (c. 247 BCE - 224 CE) and reached its zenith during the Sassanian Empire (224-651 CE). During this time, Isfahan was known as "Gavmishan" or "Gabian." The Sassanian kings constructed various monuments, palaces, and temples in the region.

Islamic Era: With the Arab conquest of Persia in the mid-7th century, Isfahan came under Islamic rule. During the Abbasid Caliphate, the city declined in importance but experienced a revival under the Seljuk Turks in the 11th century. It became a significant cultural and commercial centre along the Silk Road.

Seljuk and Mongol Period: In the 11th and 12th centuries, Isfahan was under the rule of the Seljuk Turks. During this time, the city flourished, with numerous mosques, madrasas, and other structures built. However, in the early 13th century, Isfahan faced devastation when the Mongols, led by Genghis Khan, invaded the region.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque

Naqsh-e Jahan Square

Timurid and Safavid Period: Isfahan experienced a cultural renaissance during the Timurid dynasty (1370-1507), but it was under the Safavid dynasty (1501-1736) that the city reached its golden age. In 1598, Shah Abbas I made Isfahan the capital of the Safavid Empire, and the city was transformed into a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. Magnificent buildings like the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, and Ali Qapu Palace were constructed during this period, making Isfahan one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

Exterior detail of the Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque

Afghan and Qajar Rule: The Safavid Empire declined in the early 18th century, and Isfahan faced challenging times during the Afghan invasion (1722-1729). Later, the Qajar dynasty (1785-1925) established control over Iran, and although Isfahan was no longer the political capital, it retained its cultural importance.

Modern Era: In the 20th century, Iran underwent significant political and social changes. Isfahan continued to be a cultural centre, and during the reign of Mohammad Reza Shah Pahlavi, the city experienced modernization and urban development.

Interior of the Shah Mosque at Naqsh-e Jahan

Present Day: Today, Isfahan remains a vital city in Iran, known for its rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant culture. The city's landmarks have earned it a spot on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites, attracting tourists and historians from around the globe.

Overall, Isfahan's history is a tapestry of ancient civilizations, Islamic dynasties, and cultural achievements, making it a testament to Iran's rich heritage and historical significance.

Rugs

Antique Persian Isfahan Rug 1.93m x 1.36m

Isfahan rugs are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship and artistic beauty. The history of Isfahan rugs dates back several centuries and is closely intertwined with the culture of the city. The production of these fabulous rugs has been a significant part of Isfahan's cultural heritage.

Ancient Roots: The art of rug weaving in the region of Isfahan can be traced back to ancient times. Persian carpets have a long history, and Isfahan played a crucial role in their development. The city became a prominent centre for carpet weaving during the Safavid dynasty (1501-1736 AD).

The Golden Age: The golden age of Isfahan rug production is often associated with the Safavid period. Under the patronage of Shah Abbas I (reigned 1588-1629), Isfahan witnessed a cultural and artistic renaissance. The Safavid court actively encouraged the creation of exquisite rugs and textiles, leading to an increase in the quality and diversity of Isfahan's carpet production.

Fine Craftsmanship: Isfahan rugs became famous for their intricate designs, fine craftsmanship, and high-quality materials. The skilled artisans of Isfahan utilised the asymmetric knotting technique, known as the Persian or Senneh knot, which allowed for greater detail in the designs.

Antique Persian Isfahan Rug 2.04m x 1.38m

Designs and Patterns: Isfahan rugs are renowned for their elaborate designs, often featuring floral motifs, hunting scenes, medallions, and intricate borders. The central medallion and corner patterns are common elements in Isfahan carpets, and they are known for their balanced and symmetrical layouts.

Decline and Revival: The decline of Isfahan rug production occurred during the early 20th century. Political instability, economic challenges, and the emergence of machine-made rugs impacted traditional craftsmanship. However, in the mid-20th century, there was a revival of interest in Persian carpets, and efforts were made to preserve and revive the art of weaving Isfahan rugs.

Modern Era: Today, Isfahan rugs continue to be prized and sought after by collectors and connoisseurs worldwide. Artisans in Isfahan and surrounding regions still produce these rugs using traditional techniques handed down through generations. The modern Isfahan rugs maintain the artistic brilliance and timeless appeal that made them famous throughout history.

Antique Chanteh Bags

Antique Chanteh Bags: A Glimpse into Persia's Rich Cultural Heritage

Antique Qashqai Chanteh

I have long been fascinated by these small tribal weavings, ever since I was presented with one as a gift on my first visit to the Qashqai tribe of south west Persia in 1994.

Antique Chanteh bags, also known as vanity bags, are a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Persia. These interesting little weavings offer a fascinating window into the traditional lifestyles of the numerous nomadic tribes along with the intricate craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations.

Major tribes of Persia

The history of the origins of Chanteh bags is a little blurry but they were woven by the women of the tribes and would have been used to keep valuables such as jewellery and money. They were woven using wool from their flocks of sheep and whatever natural dyes were locally available. They were not made commercially, simply for their own use and they served a practical purpose while reflecting the artistry and cultural identity of the individuals who crafted them.

What sets antique Chanteh bags apart is the remarkable level of detail employed in their design. Each bag is a small work of art, showcasing the weaver’s skills along with their personal taste. These designs are meticulously handwoven, using various techniques such as knotting, kilim weaving or embroidery, which demonstrate the dexterity and mastery of the weavers.

With nomadic tribes adapting to modern ways of life, the weaving of Chanteh bags has all but disappeared over the last 100 years but their significance as cultural artefacts remains intact. Today, these bags have found new purpose as stunning decorative pieces, proudly displayed in art galleries, museums, and private collections.

Owning an antique Chanteh bag is akin to holding a tangible piece of history. Each bag carries with it the stories of a bygone era, passed down from generation to generation. As collectors and enthusiasts continue to appreciate these intricate creations, the demand for authentic antique Chanteh bags has only grown stronger. They not only showcase Persia's artistic heritage but also serve as a reminder of the ingenuity and adaptability of its people.

To view my stock of these wonderful Chantehs, please click below:

Funky Qashqai Kilims

A bit of a departure with these kilims but I fell in love with the naivety of the designs and, most of all, with the story behind them!

These kilims are woven by the Qashqai, a nomadic tribe in south-west Iran around the city of Shiraz. They have a long history of weaving and many continue to live a traditional nomadic lifestyle.

The designs come from drawings by Kosar, the 14 year old daughter of one of the weavers. They were spotted by her father in her drawing book and, together, they decided to make them into these unique kilims.

In this letter, she explains where her inspiration come from - here is an excerpt:

“I try to draw designs with my own ideas, for example, when I see objects, shapes and images, I try to add or subtract things to them. When I see a person or an animal, I draw it in the funniest way possible.

When I draw a design, I usually create it in the most unnatural way possible to attract people's attention. For me, the most interesting stage of the work is when the designs are turned into kilims by the weavers.”

To see my stock of these fabulous kilims, please click here.

Heriz-mania

Heriz-mania!

I love Heriz carpets which are woven in the villages around Heris in north west Persia, around 60 kms north east of Tabriz. Full of rustic charm, they look equally at home in a traditional or contemporary room and I have yet to see a good Heriz look out of place in any setting.

Antique Heriz Carpet 3.12m x 2.22m

Heriz rugs are easily recognisable, characterised by bold geometric designs, often with terracotta red fields. Many of them have large angular medallions which dominate the field and they were generally woven in large, room sizes.

Another great characteristic of Heriz rugs is their durability. The area is situated in the foothills of Mount Sabalan in north west Persia which sits on a major copper deposit - this finds its way into the sheep’s drinking water and is considered to contribute to the high quality and durability of the wool.

However, there is one thing that can be a bit baffling and that’s price - this is what I would like to attempt to explain in the remainder of this post. Just Google ‘antique Heriz rug’ and you get a large range, with anything from a few hundred to tens of thousands of pounds. So what makes the difference? As with all antique rugs, it’s really down to a combination of age, condition and colours (for a brief, general explanation check out my video on these topics here).

Age

Broadly speaking, the older the more valuable. I have put them in general bands for ease but this should be taken with a little flexibility.

• Pre 1900 examples in good condition are scarce and sought after (with prices to match!).

• 1900 to 1920 carpets can be fabulous with more reasonable prices. 

• 1920 to 1940, less sought after but still some great examples. 

• Post 1940s - a lot of commercial weaving with poor quality wool and dyes; as with all rugs, there are exceptions to this though!

Condition

As with all antique rugs, condition is an important factor in the value - here are some things that will affect value and that you should be aware of:

• Wear

• Fringes/sides

• Repairs

• Moth damage

For more details on these topics, have a peek at this short video:

Colour & Design

As much as condition and age affect the value of any antique rug, colours are also a contributing factor. This is particularly important in Heriz rugs. Firstly, the red has to be ‘right’ - not too harsh and not the browny reds of many post 1940s examples. Secondary colours are also important. The simpler red, blue and white rugs are less interesting so always look out for unusual secondary colours like greens, pinks and golds. Another thing to look out for is an unusual field colour. Heriz carpets are generally red; any other field colour is unusual and will therefore add to the value.

Designs can also contribute to the value. Generally, less fussy, open designs are more sought after, as are any designs that are out of the ordinary.

Conclusion

So, how much should you be paying for a Heriz carpet? I have based these rough estimates on a relatively common size, 3.50m x 2.50m, in good condition. Much larger sizes (and even some smaller ones) are less common so can be higher in price. And please bear in mind that there are always exceptions and that if you love it, then it’s right!

• New - £3,000 to £5,000

• Post 1940s - £500 to £2,000

• 1920s to 1940s - £3,000 to £5,000

• 1900s to 1920s - £4,000 to £10,000

• Pre 1900s - £8,000 upwards

To view my current range of these wonderful carpets, please click here.